Maribor, Slovenia

Though it was cold and damp outside I awoke to a toasty bedroom thanks to a little space heater sitting near the bedside.  Getting dressed I walked through the kitchen to the living room of our rental house.  Here I stood with my face nearly touching the window.  Beautiful green hills lightly covered by mist unfolded before me in this tiny village just south of the city.  Unable to move I take in the sight for twenty minutes, watching a colorful police car drive up a small lane to a school, turn around, and return from where he appeared.  Everything seems so peaceful and simple.  It is simply perfection. What a heartbreak that we have to leave today.

After showering and packing up we leave our wonderful rental house.  A gigantic spider appears near the top of the bedroom wardrobe to wish us goodbye.  Thankfully I did not see it earlier or I might have had a different opinion of our night there.  After taking in one last view as I finish putting our luggage in the car we head off to downtown Maribor for breakfast.

It is a drizzling weekend morning and traffic is light.  A perfect road without a single defect takes us into the city.  Driving in we pass many large Ikea-like stores and other modern construction.  It all looks new and clean.  A bridge spanning a river near the center appears to separate the old area from the new area.  The south bank has modern glass construction while the north gets much more Communist.  Here we decide on sightseeing by car has it has begun to rain.  We drive a couple of laps around the center but cannot find anything of interest.  Coming to a small park with parking areas around its perimeter, which the GPS seemed to think was the center of the city, we pulled in and discussed our next move.  As we talked the rain suddenly stopped, as if inviting us out.  Not one to argue with nature we quickly evacuated our car and walked towards a large pedestrian area.  Around were decent buildings but the communist hand was everywhere.  From the mandatory giant statue depicting war and sacrifice to the ugly concrete squares they call buildings.

The rain starting again we ducked into a corner cafe.  The outside was not inviting but inside was beautiful.  A large area opened in front of us and a fantastic heavy timber ceiling above.  A waitress smiled at us as we took seats by a window and came over to take our order, in perfect English, as we dressed down and got settled in.  Outside a fruit vendor and kebab shop were making preparations to open.  Across the way a Communist looking shoe shops eaves protected a lady and her dog from what had become a downpour.  Dreaming about the beautiful view we had just an hour before, and comparing it to what we saw now, we felt quite against Maribor.

Turning our attention to the table, we drank our mediocre coffee and ate our tasty tost and apple pastry.  With the rain stopping again as we finished our meal we briefly explored the area before giving up due to lack of interest.  Safely back in our car we headed for the motorway and onward to Ljubljana.

Perhaps Maribor is a beautiful city and we just happened to be in the wrong area with drab weather and negative attitudes. Or perhaps it truly is the ugliest part of Slovenia.  I will leave my judgement open until the next time I visit, for I will most certainly be back.

 

 

Szeged to Maribor

It is well known that the idiom “All roads lead to Rome” was actually stolen from the original “All roads lead to Budapest”.  If you wish to travel from Szeged(on the Southern border of Hungary) to Slovenia(on the Western border), you must first go to Budapest, which lies near the Northern border of the country.

First thing in the morning we went to Bor Ter(wine festival) in Szeged to get wine glasses that we have collected most years.  Sadly it was early and the booths were not yet open so we couldn’t enjoy any delicious wine, but it being illegal to drive with even a drop of alcohol in your system it was probably for the best.

After purchasing our motorway pass we settled in for a long and boring drive through the Hungarian farmland.  First we would head North, then South-West, and finally West to reach Maribor, the start of our Slovenian vacation.  Not a bad days drive at slightly under five hours.  Heading North was uneventful, as was our South-West journey.

Nearing the border with Slovenia things got interesting.  Dark clouds blotted out the sun and brilliant flashes of lightning took its place.  I was enjoying this wonderful display of nature until we entered a downpour.  Glad we had decided to take the Rolls instead of the convertible we quickly fogged up and both scrambled to fix the issue.  Thanks to our quick reaction we cleared the windows and were greeted with exactly the same amount of visibility, courtesy of the intense rain.

Driving by following the reflectors on the painted lane directly in front of the car we soldiered on, stopping at a petrol station on the border to purchase a Slovenian motorway pass and give my eyes a rest from not blinking for the past half hour.  Waking my eyes up we continued through these cats and dogs.

Nature did not loosen her grip until we found our rental house just outside the city , when we rewarded with a drizzle while escaping our car for a more comfortable structure.

We saw nothing of the Slovenian countryside or of Maribor that first day due to the wily combination of weather and darkness.